Mmmmm. . . . I can just smell the briny air when I set the table with my collection of seashells and coral. It’s like bringing a bit of summer vacation to the farmhouse table. Serving as the centerpiece, coral takes center stage. Clamshells, souvenirs from beachcombing forays on Nantucket Island, are placed in pairs, on both ends of the table. Filled with coarse pepper and sea salt, I can’t think of a more natural, or simpler way to pass the salt.