Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 to 5 scallions, minced (all of the white section and half of the green stalk)

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

4 to 5 tablespoons flour

2 quarts light chicken broth

1 dried ancho pepper, cut in half

1 tablespoon paprika

½ teaspoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon Tabasco

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1/8 teaspoon Stubb’s Liquid Smoke

1 to 1½ cups steamed corn (fresh from the cob is best, but frozen is O.K. too)

1 pint half-and-half or light cream

1 large can of lump crabmeat

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

In a 4-quart pot, soften the scallions in 1 tablespoon olive oil for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring regularly. Take the scallions out of the pot and set them aside.

In the same pot (do not clean), melt the butter over medium heat. As the butter melts, gradually whisk in the flour just a bit at a time. Whisk vigorously to make the roux. Simmer the roux on medium-low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, continuing to whisk occasionally.

Slowly whisk in chicken broth, then add the ancho pepper and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the paprika, brown sugar, Worcester­shire sauce, Tabasco, and liquid smoke. Whisk to incorporate and simmer another 2 minutes.

Stir in the corn, half-and-half, and crabmeat, mixing gently with a wood­en spoon. (You wouldn’t want a whisk here as you don’t want to break up the crab.) When it comes back to a simmer (not a full boil), cover the pot and turn off the heat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. You can enjoy it the same day, or refrigerate overnight and let the flavors develop—just remember to fish out the ancho pepper before serving.